Angie's List Answers is the trusted spot to ask home improvement and health questions and get answers from service companies, health providers and consumers. For ratings and reviews on companies in your area, search Angie's List.
We hired an electrician to rewired all our electrical. He got the permits and everything. The meter is located on the exterior of the house while the original panel was located on the other side of meter, inside of the house. We had to pay extra to move the new electrical panel to a new location about ft away from original location.
During inspection, I was told that the question of where's the main disconnect box came up I was not present. The original panel had a main disconnect breaker, the new panel does not.
We're told we need an outdoor disconnect and that it would require extra permits and extra cost to add. Do we really need new permits for this? Are there any alternatives to the outdoor disconnect. I'm not in favor of the idea of having a switch on the outside of the house. Can we simply add a main breaker into the new panel? Or put the disconnect inside of house on the other side of the meter? Thank you in advance for any suggestions and help.
But he defiinitely screwed up - now the question is, who pays for it, and do you trust him to do the job right if he forgot something that fundamental. I should back up a step - presuming it is not there and just overlooked - some main breaker panels connect to the side of the meter base, some are incorporated in the bottom of it. Would typically have a slip-latch through an eye or a spring-loaded eye tab sticking through a slot in the panel door allowing you to open a panel door looking like this.
However, if he failed to provide it, I don't know if I would trust him to do it right - or even trust what work he has done to date. If this was a fixed price job, he should do the permit amendment, rework, reinspection, etc at no added cost - because that is a mandatory part of the job. Inspector should be able to say what is needed, as can permit office. And of course don't pay until it has passed final inspection and you are sure everything is working OK.
Answered 4 years ago by LCD.In my last inspection the house had a grounding rod connection from the grounded lug of the meter box, not from the main panel which had an incomplete water pipe grounding connection, with no jumper across the water meter.
Hoe effective is such a grounding electrode, compared with a grounding rod connection from the main service panel? It is just as effective. There is no requirement for the water meter to have a jumper if the interior water pipes are bonded elsewhere or if the interior water pipes are not total metal pipes. Regarding the supplementary grounding connection, and lack of a jumper, I had heard that there could be greater resistance across a water meter than along the pipe, though it does not make sense to me if the meter housing is brass.
Obviously not as big a deal if there is a grounding rod comnnection, but I have seen grounding wires cut due to sloppy yard work. In this case the supplemental ground was clamped well downstream of the meter, so it would be disconnected if the meter were disconnected. Side note: in my reports I always caution people about maintaining grounding continuity when updating plumbing if there is a water pipe grounding connection to a galvanized pipe well away from the water meter.
Just be sure it was sized correctly to the water pipe…before it actually goes to the ground rods as well…as 6 AWG Bare is fine to the ground rod…but not to the water pipe electrode. Let me open this post with the statement of; I am only trying to ensure a full understanding of what is required when dealing with metal water pipes. Having been called to check the grounding of metal water pipes I have seen many different scenarios which were code compliant but hard to find. This bond in not part of the grounding electrode system and shall be bonded to the service equipment, the grounded neutral conductor, the grounding electrode conductor where of sufficient size, or to the grounding electrode.
The bonding jumper mentioned in It is convenience that lands the bonding jumper on both sides of the meter not a requirement. What is required is that one end land on the grounding electrode the first five feet and the other end could land at any accessible point on the metal water pipe up to and including the far end to the hot water pipe. If I have the grounding electrode conductor installed within the first five feet of the point of entry then I can install another bonding conductor to any point on the interior water pipe back to the panel and still be code compliant.
If there is not 10 feet of metal water pipe in contact with earth then the grounding electrode conductor is not required. For example; a metal pipe extends only nine feet from the house and non-metallic pipe is installed from that point to the water supply no grounding electrode conductor is required.
How to bond the interior metal water pipes has been the subject of many debates. Just what is to be bonded on the interior and when is it required? Any piece of electrical equipment that is connected to the water system will have an equipment grounding conductor that will fulfill the requirements of If the circuit supplying any equipment connected to the partial metal water pipe does not have an equipment grounding conductor then the requirement to bond would be required.
I will be more than happy to answer any questions on this matter and give references to my opinion. If you would like send me a PM and we can discuss it future through email complete with illustrations.A meter socket houses the electricity for the meter for your home and can also be known as a meter base.
The meter itself is provided by your utility company and used to calculate your monthly bills. Individual states may have slightly different legislation about requirements for the meter socket, but for the most part, the installation is standard across the country. Although the regulations are relatively standard across the country, you should check for any local exceptions or requirements before commencing work.
Some utility companies provide the meter socket as well as the actual meter so you should check that with them in advance so that you don't buy extra equipment or carry out any unnecessary work.
Assemble the meter loop piping and base socket, adhering to the regulations put in place by the supplying utility. The placement of this assembly must be correct and allow the utility company access when they require it.
Make sure that clearances around the meter socket area are in line with recommended guidelines. You should check specifics, but in general terms, the meter socket must be placed at least 10 inches from any obstruction above or to either side, 5 feet up from the finished grade and with 3 square feet of access space kept clear at all times.
The power feed wires should be of the correct rating for the overall amperage capacity required on your circuit. There will be three wires: two with black insulation and one white. If you are unsure, check in advance with the utility company.
Apply corrosion inhibitor to the bare copper you expose. The manufacturer will display torque specifications inside the socket, use the socket torque wrench to apply the required amount of torque to the bolt. The white cable should be connected to the central terminal. Ensure that all of the connections have the correct level of torque. Connect the assembly to the ground rod that should previously have been installed in the earth.
What's new New posts. Log in Register. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. New posts. Search forums. Log in.
One Service, One Meter Feeding Two Main Panels???
Occupation Engineering. Existing installation, We are only supplying the building. Existing building will be removed and ours brought in.
Meter is remote from existing building no service disconnect at meter Customer says it was installed in the 80's. On site electrician says they need a disconnect on the exterior of the building for code compliance. My question is: If our customer has to change the existing wire intercept and re-route from the meter to the building does he need to install a service disconnect at the meter? Jim W in Tampa Senior Member.Hello- I am adding a sq ft second story to my home.
I have new amp panel on first floor. I bought a amp panel for the upstairs. What size wire is needed to run from the downstairs amp, up to the amp panel. It is a distance of only 10ft or less.Electrical Meter Base Reinstallation via a Disconnect/Reconnect (DC/RC)
How much will it cost to change from a 60 amp to a amp? I want to run a amp panel in to my garage from my amp panel in my basement what size wire do ineed. And do I need a breaker in boat panels or just the panel in garage. I have run wire underground from the new meter base to the house to get rid of the overhead and will be replacing the service to the house.
My question is what type of wire is needed out of the The SPA is about 7 feet from the disconnect box. The disconnect box instructions Remember Me? Find questions to answer Find today's questions Find unanswered questions. Search Topics. Login Not a member? Join our community. Sep 8,PM.
Subscribe to RSS
Where do you attach the fourth wire when installing a amp disconnect in between the meter and the service panal. Which fourth wire? Line 1, Line 2, Ground, Neutral? It's customary to put the ground from a ground rod at the disconnect. You woulld then remove it from the inside panel and isolate the ground and neutral in the inside panel.
It may be legal to install the disconnect without the ground rod, but not without the ground. Neutral would pass through in this case. If you move the ground rod connection, then everything makes sense. Ground and neutral are together in the disconnect and separate in the panel.Also called the service disconnect, this is the first disconnect device after the utility meter.
This disconnect may be a special breaker switch housed in an exterior box enclosure, or it may simply be the main circuit breaker on the home's main service panel. Each of these configurations involves specific wiring techniques and requirements that are not interchangeable.
This describes the basic wiring setup for a separate disconnect breaker switch. Disconnects receive volts and lethal current from feeder lines coming from the utility meter. The feeders and the terminals they connect to on the disconnect switch are live at all times unless the utility has shut off the power to your service.
The disconnect switch does not shut off the power in the feeders lines or at the switch connections. Disconnect switches must be installed by a licensed electrician. The electrical wiring to the disconnect is fed from the "load" side, or outgoing side, of the electric meter. The side of the meter that receives incoming power from the utility service lines is called the "line" side. There are two hot wires and a neutral wire. The hot wires each carry volts and are different phases. These phases are normally called "A" and "B" phases.
The total voltage, when measured between them, is around volts. These wires connect to the disconnect breaker installed within the disconnect box. The breaker is rated for maximum current, measured in amps. For example, a home with amp service will have a disconnect breaker rated for amps. This is standard for new home construction. Older homes may have amp, amp or lower service capacity.
The two hot wires connect to the top two lugs of the breaker, called the "line" side of the breaker. The neutral wire connects to the silver-colored lug along the side of the breaker.
This wire typically is marked with white phasing tape to signify that it is the neutral wire. The bottom of the breaker is for the "load" side wiring. The wires that connect here feed the electric service panel in your home. Two "hot" feeder wires connect to the bottom of the breaker.
A neutral feed wire connects to the silver-colored lug along the side of the breaker. This wire is marked with white phasing tape to signify that it is the neutral wire. The electrical disconnect may feed the main service panel breaker panel in the home.
The feeder wires connect to the main breaker in the panel, and the neutral wire connects to the neutral bus. There also may be a ground wire between the disconnect and the service panel; this must be separated from the neutral feed at the service panel to prevent an improper neutral connection.
Warning Disconnects receive volts and lethal current from feeder lines coming from the utility meter. Read More.Electric house meters can only be installed by power companies. Homeowners, however, can install the meter base. The electrical meter is part of a meter loop, which also contains a weatherhead and breaker box. Meter loops must be built and installed to specifications set by the power company.
If the installation does not meet specifications, the power company will not furnish power to the house. Most power companies provide drawings on how they want the meter loops built and installed. Request a copy of meter loop specifications from your power company, ask if any permits are required, and learn if the work can be done by an unlicensed electrician.
If the city, county or power company requires that the work be completed by a licensed electrician, you may be able to pay a small fee for one to oversee your work.
Select a location on a side or back of the house nearest the power company's cable or line to install the meter loop. The meter loop must be a minimum of 3 feet from windows and doors. Connect the meter base to a weatherhead, or weathercap, with 2-inch diameter rigid galvanized steel RGS conduit. The meter must be installed at a minimum of 5 feet and a maximum of 6 feet above the ground.
Cut the conduit to a length to meet these requirements and thread the cut end with a 2-inch pipe die. Pipe dies can be rented if you don't have a set. Connect the weatherhead and meter base with the piece of conduit. Attach a breaker panel to the bottom of the meter base with a RGS 2-inch nipple 6 inches long. Fasten the entire meter loop flat against the wall with a sufficient number of conduit straps.
How to Wire an Electric House Meter
If the weatherhead is higher than the roof overhang, a hole will have to be cut in the roof and soffit. Before attaching the weatherhead, push the conduit up through the holes.
Install suitable flashing around the conduit at its entry into the soffit and its exit onto the roof to prevent water leaks and entry of mice and squirrels. Connect a No.